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Why Are My Shrimp Dying? 10 Common Causes and How to Fix Them

Updated February 2026 | 12 min read

Nothing is more frustrating than finding your beloved shrimp dead in your aquarium. You've done your research, set up a nice tank, and spent time carefully picking out your shrimp - only to watch them die one by one.

If you're asking "why are my shrimp dying?", you're not alone. This is one of the most common questions on r/shrimptank, and the answer usually comes down to one of a few key issues.

In this guide, we'll walk through the 10 most common reasons shrimp die and, more importantly, how to fix each problem.

The Short Answer

Most shrimp deaths come down to:

  • Water quality issues (ammonia, nitrite, or high nitrates)
  • Failed molts (usually from incorrect GH/KH or unstable parameters)
  • Uncycled tanks (putting shrimp in a new tank too soon)
  • Poor acclimation (shocking them with different water parameters)

Let's dig into each cause in detail.

Healthy red cherry shrimp in a planted tank A healthy, vibrant red cherry shrimp - this is what you want to see

1. Your Tank Isn't Cycled

This is the number one killer of shrimp for beginners. An uncycled tank has toxic levels of ammonia and nitrite that will kill shrimp within hours or days.

Signs of an uncycled tank:

  • Shrimp die within the first week
  • Ammonia or nitrite readings above 0
  • Cloudy water
  • Shrimp are lethargic or try to escape

The fix: Before adding any shrimp, your tank needs to complete the nitrogen cycle. This takes 4-8 weeks. You need:

  • Ammonia: 0 ppm
  • Nitrite: 0 ppm
  • Nitrate: Under 20 ppm

If you already have shrimp in an uncycled tank, do small daily water changes (10-15%) using dechlorinated water that matches your tank's temperature and parameters. Consider using Seachem Prime to temporarily detoxify ammonia.

Product recommendation: API Freshwater Master Test Kit - test your water regularly. Don't trust test strips; liquid tests are more accurate.

2. Ammonia or Nitrite Poisoning

Even in a cycled tank, ammonia and nitrite spikes can happen from:

  • Overfeeding
  • Dead fish or shrimp left in the tank
  • Filter failure or cleaning
  • Adding too many animals at once

Signs of ammonia/nitrite poisoning:

  • Shrimp become inactive
  • Red or pink discoloration
  • Gasping at the water surface
  • Sudden deaths

The fix: Test your water immediately. If you detect any ammonia or nitrite:

  1. Do a 25% water change with matched parameters
  2. Dose Seachem Prime to detoxify remaining ammonia
  3. Check your filter is running properly
  4. Remove any dead animals or uneaten food
  5. Stop feeding for 2-3 days

3. Failed Molts

Shrimp need to molt (shed their exoskeleton) regularly to grow. When molting goes wrong, it's often fatal. You might find shrimp stuck halfway out of their old shell, or with a "white ring of death" around their body.

Common causes of failed molts:

  • GH too low: Shrimp need minerals (calcium and magnesium) from the water to form new shells
  • GH too high: Makes shells too thick and hard to escape
  • Unstable parameters: Frequent water changes can trigger premature molts
  • Poor diet: Lack of calcium in food

As one Reddit user explained: "Your GH/KH seem fine to me, other reasons for failed molts could be water changes - how large are they? If you only have shrimp you mostly just have to do top ups."

Ideal parameters for Neocaridina (cherry shrimp):

  • GH: 6-8 dGH
  • KH: 2-5 dKH

Ideal parameters for Caridina (crystal shrimp):

  • GH: 4-6 dGH
  • KH: 0-1 dKH

The fix:

  1. Test your GH and KH with a proper test kit
  2. If using tap water, consider switching to remineralized RO water for consistency
  3. Add calcium-rich foods like spinach, kale, or commercial shrimp mineral supplements
  4. Keep water changes small (10-15%) to maintain stability

Product recommendations:

4. Poor Acclimation

Shrimp are incredibly sensitive to changes in water parameters. Dumping them straight from the bag into your tank is a death sentence.

What happens with poor acclimation:

  • Osmotic shock from different TDS levels
  • Temperature shock
  • pH shock
  • Deaths occur within hours to days of adding new shrimp

The fix: Drip acclimate your shrimp

  1. Float the bag in your tank for 15-20 minutes to equalize temperature
  2. Set up drip acclimation - use airline tubing with a loose knot to drip tank water into a container with your shrimp
  3. Drip at 2-4 drops per second
  4. Continue until the water volume has tripled (1-2 hours)
  5. Net the shrimp into your tank - don't pour the bag water in

This slow process lets shrimp gradually adjust to your tank's specific parameters.

Planted freshwater aquarium with healthy plants A well-established planted tank provides stable parameters and natural food sources for shrimp

5. Temperature Issues

Shrimp are cold-blooded and sensitive to temperature swings.

Problems caused by temperature:

  • Too hot (above 80°F/27°C): Accelerated metabolism, shorter lifespan, stress, death
  • Too cold (below 65°F/18°C): Slowed metabolism, won't breed, potential death
  • Rapid changes: Even 2-3 degree swings can stress shrimp

Ideal temperatures:

  • Cherry shrimp: 68-78°F (20-26°C)
  • Crystal shrimp: 68-74°F (20-23°C)

The fix:

  1. Use a reliable aquarium heater with a thermostat
  2. Place your tank away from windows, AC vents, and heat sources
  3. Use a thermometer to monitor actual water temperature
  4. Match water change temperature exactly to tank temperature

6. Copper Toxicity

Copper is extremely toxic to shrimp - even trace amounts can kill them. This catches many beginners off guard.

Sources of copper:

  • Medications (many fish medications contain copper)
  • Tap water from copper pipes
  • Some plant fertilizers
  • Copper-based algaecides

Signs of copper poisoning:

  • Shrimp die rapidly with no other explanation
  • Deaths after adding new decorations, plants, or medications

The fix:

  1. Never use copper-based medications in a shrimp tank
  2. Check fertilizers for copper content before using
  3. If you suspect copper in your tap water, use RO water instead
  4. Run a polyfilter pad to absorb heavy metals

Despite common fears, one experienced keeper noted: "My house has copper pipes and I have 6 thriving shrimp tanks. Anticorrosives are added to tap water for this very reason." The bigger risk is usually medications and fertilizers, not pipes.

7. High Nitrates

While not as immediately toxic as ammonia or nitrite, high nitrates over 20-40 ppm stress shrimp and can cause deaths over time.

Signs of high nitrates:

  • Gradual deaths over weeks
  • Reduced breeding
  • Less active shrimp
  • Stunted growth

The fix:

  1. Add more live plants - they absorb nitrates naturally
  2. Do regular small water changes (10-15% weekly)
  3. Don't overstock your tank
  4. Vacuum substrate during water changes
  5. Don't overfeed

8. Harmful Chemicals

Your shrimp can be killed by chemicals you'd never suspect.

Common chemical killers:

  • Chlorine/chloramine in tap water (always use dechlorinator)
  • Air fresheners or cleaning products sprayed near the tank
  • Bug spray or pesticides
  • Lotions or soaps on your hands
  • Medications like No Planaria (kills snails but can harm shrimp if overdosed)

The fix:

  1. Always use water conditioner when doing water changes
  2. Keep cleaning products away from your tank area
  3. Wash and rinse hands thoroughly before putting them in the tank
  4. Research any products thoroughly before adding to a shrimp tank

9. Predators or Aggression

Some tank mates will hunt and eat shrimp.

Tank mates that eat shrimp:

  • Most fish (including bettas, guppies, and tetras will eat baby shrimp)
  • Assassin snails (will eat weak or molting shrimp)
  • Other predatory invertebrates

The fix:

  • Keep shrimp in species-only tanks for best survival
  • If keeping with fish, provide LOTS of hiding spots with dense plants
  • Consider that you'll lose babies to predation - this may be fine if you just want some shrimp, not a breeding colony

Amano shrimp carrying eggs in aquarium Amano shrimp are hardy and great algae eaters, but their babies require brackish water

10. Natural Causes and Old Age

Sometimes shrimp just die, and it's nobody's fault.

Natural death factors:

  • Shrimp only live 1-2 years on average
  • Purchased shrimp may already be older
  • Shipping stress weakens them
  • Some individuals are simply weaker genetically

As one Redditor put it: "It's normal to lose some shrimp when first getting them... shrimp are very fragile and their bodies don't like change."

What to expect:

  • Losing 1-2 shrimp in the first week after purchase is fairly normal
  • If you're losing more than 20%, there's likely an underlying issue
  • Established colonies may lose the occasional shrimp - this is normal

How to Investigate Shrimp Deaths

When shrimp start dying, work through this checklist:

Step 1: Test Your Water

Test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, GH, and KH. Write down the numbers.

Step 2: Check Temperature

Is it stable? Has it changed recently?

Step 3: Review Recent Changes

  • Did you add new fish, plants, or decorations?
  • Did you do a water change?
  • Did you use any medications or chemicals?
  • Did you spray anything near the tank?

Step 4: Examine the Dead Shrimp

  • Are they stuck in their molt? (Molting issue)
  • Is there a white ring around the body? (Molting issue)
  • Are they discolored? (Possible poisoning)
  • No visible issues? (Water quality or disease)

Step 5: Check for Patterns

  • Are only certain shrimp dying? (Older, recently added, specific gender)
  • When do deaths happen? (After water changes, after feeding)
  • How quickly do they die? (Sudden = poisoning, gradual = parameters)

Prevention: How to Keep Shrimp Alive Long-Term

The best cure is prevention. Here's what successful shrimp keepers do:

Maintain stable parameters

  • Use RO water with remineralizer for consistency
  • Do small, frequent water changes rather than large ones
  • Test weekly and keep a log

Cycle your tank properly

  • Wait 4-8 weeks before adding shrimp
  • Consider adding a single snail first to produce waste

Feed appropriately

  • Feed once daily or every other day
  • Remove uneaten food after 2 hours
  • Include calcium-rich foods for molting

Provide proper habitat

  • Live plants help stabilize water quality
  • Hiding spots reduce stress
  • Sponge filters are safest for baby shrimp

Use the right equipment

  • Sponge filter or pre-filter sponge on HOB filters
  • Reliable heater with thermostat
  • Thermometer to monitor temperature
  • GH/KH test kit (not just the basic ammonia/nitrite/nitrate)

When to Start Over

Sometimes a tank is so compromised that starting fresh is the best option. Consider a restart if:

  • You've had multiple unexplained die-offs
  • Suspected contamination (medications, chemicals)
  • Persistent water quality issues
  • Disease that keeps coming back

When starting over:

  1. Rehome any surviving shrimp to a temporary container
  2. Clean and rinse everything with water only (no soap)
  3. Replace substrate if contaminated
  4. Recycle the tank completely
  5. Add shrimp only after parameters are perfect

Final Thoughts

Losing shrimp is discouraging, but it happens to everyone. The key is to figure out what went wrong and fix it. Most shrimp deaths come down to water quality, molting issues, or acclimation problems - all things you can address.

Remember the golden rules:

  1. Cycle your tank first - no shortcuts
  2. Test your water regularly - don't guess
  3. Keep parameters stable - consistency matters more than perfection
  4. Acclimate slowly - drip for at least an hour
  5. Start simple - master cherry shrimp before moving to more sensitive species

With patience and attention to detail, you'll be able to keep a thriving shrimp colony. Don't give up after your first setback - use it as a learning experience.

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